The more high-end restaurants that open in a concentrated area, the harder it becomes to find a decent meal that doesn’t break the bank or become the focal point of the night (unless you resign yourself to a slab of pizza). With so much activity humming on Harrison Avenue lately, we were delighted to learn that El Triunfo, which for years pulled down its gates at around sunset, is now open for business during the evening. Ali Yagcioglu bought the taco joint earlier this year, then closed it for a few weeks. When he reopened in March, the unassuming spot had a brand-new polished look and a few more stools, but no fancy frills to interfere with the authentic Mexican and Salvadoran offerings, all of which are made to order on the fly. Sink your teeth into a couple of chicken tacos ($2.25), a steaming-hot vegetable quesadilla ($4.75), or a generously stuffed steak burrito ($3.75/small; $4.75/large). For less than the cost of a pack of gum, any of your selections can be plumped up with a helping of house guacamole (55 cents). If you’re not on the go, tuck into one of the traditional Salvadoran dishes, perhaps a mighty plate of the cilantro shrimp ($11.50) slathered in piquant sauce. El Triunfo, by the way, is Spanish for winner. There’s truth in advertising here.
El Triunfo, located at 147 East Berkeley Street, in Boston, is open Monday through Saturday, from 10 am to 11 pm. Call 617.542.8499.