Last we left Tony Soprano, he was hunched over a basket of onion rings in a New Jersey diner. Now, unless anyone has brokered a particularly sweet deal with HBO, most of us will have to redirect our Italian-mobster cravings to reruns — save for this opportunity for a more accessible (and certainly more appetizing) Sopranos binge.
Here’s the deal (the Real Deal, that is): Tony, Carmela, and almost two dozen real-life would-be cohorts appear at this West Roxbury deli, reincarnated as “Gangster Wraps” and hot-of-the-press panini. (Actually, this is their second sighting; they’ve been cooling their heels for years at Eric Battite’s other sandwich joint, the Brookline Spa.) You’ll recognize many of these items as classic (if not a bit upscale) deli fare: a grilled chicken Caesar wrap, a/k/a the Joseph “Joe Spa” Spadavecchio ($5.50); a buffalo tenders wrap, here referred to as the Teflon Don ($5.75); and the Tony Soprano ($5.50), a cajun roast beef, Swiss, and white sauce wrap. Battite and his team have upped the ante a bit, too; besides their oversize salads ($4.75–$6.50) and far-above-average thin-crust pizzas ($10–$15.95), homespun twists like chipotle or herb mayo, fresh marinara, and homemade salsa are peppered throughout the extensive menu. For a real treat, though, head through the connecting door to their sweetest endeavor yet: Sugar Bakery.
The Real Deal, located at 1882 Centre Street, in West Roxbury, is open Monday through Saturday, from 10 am to 9 pm, and Sunday, from 10 am to 5 pm. Call 617.325.0754.
: On The Cheap
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