New York Pizza

A pretty good slice, despite the dubious branding strategy
By MC SLIM JB  |  June 4, 2008
newyorkpizza_INSIDE.jpg

New York Pizza | 435 Mass Ave, Boston | Mon - Sat, 7 am to 1 am; Sun, 8 am to 1 am | 617.266.7020
My fun job here is to uncover worthy budget-priced restaurants, but prejudice has occasionally kept me from trying certain places, notably New York Pizza in the South End (there’s another location in the Theater District). Despite living mere blocks away for a decade, I’d avoided it because a) the name reminded me of the Yankees, for whom this lifelong Sox fan holds a depthless loathing; b) I doubted it could recreate the pizza style about which Gothamites here are always bleating; and c) even if it were authentic, so what? New Yorkers make the same parochial argument everybody makes for the superiority of their hometown pizza, just more annoyingly. A well-executed Cincinnati pie still trumps a badly done New York pizza. Further, the so-called New York style was invented by the Neapolitans: cutting slices big enough to fold doesn’t mean you can take credit for it. But after years of willful neglect, I finally gave New York Pizza a whirl — and now regret not visiting sooner.

Each slice ($2.50/cheese; $3.25/pepperoni) is a good quarter of a 14-inch pizza, and while it won’t make anyone forget Cambridge’s Trattoria Gran Gusto (whose owner actually hails from Naples), it’s superior to many cheapie pizzas I’ve eaten elsewhere in Boston. It boasts a thin, hand-stretched crust cooked all the way through, good tomato sauce, not too much mozzarella, pepperoni that’s greasy without puddling, and enough sturdiness to hold together when folded — the only practical way to eat it. As at many Greek-American pizza joints, the menu at New York Pizza also features grinders, deep-fried foods (wings, seafood, fries, rings, Jamaican patties), kebabs, pastas, and salads, plus an array of hot breakfast options in the morning. Drinks and desserts are limited to bottled soft drinks and prepackaged ice cream treats.

Most meals are taken to go; the few hard booth seats aren’t especially inviting. Will this pizza win prizes, or even the hearts of homesick Brooklynites? Perhaps not, but that wouldn’t excuse my long-time judgment of this place, slice untasted, as fit only for a drunken late-night nosh. That’s not only unfair to New York Pizza, but to anyone who loves finding good food in unpromising places. Lesson learned: if they ever open an RMV Hospitality Diner, I’ll be first in line.

  Topics: On The Cheap , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Foods,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY MC SLIM JB
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN AT ESTELLE’S SOUTHERN CUISINE  |  March 12, 2013
    In food-nerd circles, the question of authenticity is a loaded one.
  •   OYSTER STEW AT STEEL & RYE  |  March 01, 2013
    Pity the poor would-be restaurateur in the city of Boston.
  •   PROVENÇAL FISH STEW AT SYCAMORE  |  February 13, 2013
    For food geeks accustomed to dining in urban Boston, it's easy to be a little dismissive of suburban restaurants.
  •   LAMB BELLY AT PURITAN & COMPANY  |  February 01, 2013
    By about the end of 2011, restaurant-industry PR people had already worn out the phrase "farm to table."
  •   PORCHETTA ARROSTO AT CINQUECENTO  |  January 18, 2013
    As a South Ender, I find it easy to admire the smooth professionalism and crowd-pleasing instincts of the Aquitaine Group, which operates six of its eight restaurants in the neighborhood, including Metropolis, Union, Aquitaine, and Gaslight.

 See all articles by: MC SLIM JB