Up River Café

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  June 18, 2008

There are only seven items listed as main dishes, two of which are burgers: sea scallops, grilled salmon, tandori chicken, filet mignon and grilled tempeh ($18). Johnnie chose the latter, which she enjoyed dipping in its mint yogurt. The accompanying chickpeas were well cooked, as frequently is not the case, and the bed of steamed couscous was fla-vored interestingly enough for me to sample more than one bite.

I went back to the small plates for my protein course, having devoured more than my share of the calamari. The Malaysian slow-cooked pork cheeks ($14) were served in a square piece of banana leaf, over steamed coconut rice and topped with Thai basil leaves, crunchy strips of green papaya and wedges of grapefruit. There was a hefty portion of meat in a rich brown gravy, making for a hearty dish.

For dessert, we had the flourless chocolate terrine ($9), which was topped with a white chocolate mousse that looked like French vanilla ice cream.

Despite white “chocolate” being nothing but cocoa fat, it was flavored nicely and not too sweetly. The cake was covered in a chocolate shell embedded with hazelnuts, and it was surrounded by a circle of raspberry coulis. It was very good — as was our entire dining experience.

Bill Rodriguez can be reached atbill@billrod.com.

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