Bina Osteria

Opulence: enjoy it while you can
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  January 21, 2009
3.0 3.0 Stars

Service is always good at those prices, though the décor here — which features a terrazzo floor that extends to the top of the bar — can be as avant-garde as the food. There's also high seating, low seating, oddly arranged giant white panels, curtains, and scrims, and big modern art to match. Other than a soundtrack of momentous techno, it's not loud, but it is dark. Then again, all restaurants are dark these days. Most of us still have health plans that pay for glasses, so restaurateurs can get away with handing out over-designed menus, leaving you only a candle or two to read them by.

Oh, there's still fun to be had before the money all goes away. But it probably won't last for long. Pretty soon we'll be saying, "Why, when I was a boy, we could afford to drive five miles to school every day." And the young ones will reply, "Oh Grandpa, you can't expect us to believe that."

Robert Nadeau can be reached atrobtnadeu@aol.com.

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