A good kind of corny

By BRIAN DUFF  |  January 28, 2009

Everything in these dishes is simple and well done. The beans (choose pinto or black) are tender but not a mush, and seasoned, but not too much, with salt and a bit of chili-heat. The fresh tortillas, small, tender, and thick, really impart the flavor of corn. They are infinitely superior to the flat bland sort pulled out of a bag to be wrapped around most Maine-Mexican. I would have loved a bit of chopped avocado to go with this sort of quasi-fajita, but the meat is so sweet and tender you don't miss it much.

It is one of the sad ironies of our hemisphere that corn, from which it was once so hard to wring sustenance, is now (thanks to scientific monstrosities like high-fructose corn syrup) the chief culprit in our obesity. You could rack up the calories at Loco Pollo too, because the food is so good and they sell it so cheaply. There are sodas in the fridge, but you can bring your own beer or wine, so I suggest you leave the soft drinks alone and rack up your corn-calories the old-fashioned way.

Brian Duff can be reached atbduff@une.edu.

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Culture and Lifestyle, Beverages, Food and Cooking,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BRIAN DUFF
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   GIVE 'EM A HAND  |  April 10, 2014
    Pocket-sized comfort foods
  •   EXTREME LOCALISM  |  March 19, 2014
    Perhaps Vinland’s pontifications become white noise, which fades away as you appreciate the food and its distinctive coherence of flavors and textures — the Nordic, astringent, piney, ascetic goodness of it all.
  •   DISTINCTIVE SUBURBAN DINING  |  March 14, 2014
    It is the rare chef, for example, who can make ordering the “veggie plate” seem like a good idea in retrospect — but the one at Oscar’s was fantastic, with a great mix of colors and textures.
  •   CRACKING OUR HARD EXTERIORS  |  February 27, 2014
    These days it is mollusks like oysters, mussels, and clams (rather than crustaceous shellfish, like lobster, crab, and shrimp) that best represent our collective emotional temperament. 
  •   THE SPICE OF LIFE (AND DEATH)  |  February 12, 2014
    In our reverence for herbs and spices  we should detect our contempt for the blander staple ingredients they are often meant to enliven.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF