A good kind of corny

By BRIAN DUFF  |  January 28, 2009

Everything in these dishes is simple and well done. The beans (choose pinto or black) are tender but not a mush, and seasoned, but not too much, with salt and a bit of chili-heat. The fresh tortillas, small, tender, and thick, really impart the flavor of corn. They are infinitely superior to the flat bland sort pulled out of a bag to be wrapped around most Maine-Mexican. I would have loved a bit of chopped avocado to go with this sort of quasi-fajita, but the meat is so sweet and tender you don't miss it much.

It is one of the sad ironies of our hemisphere that corn, from which it was once so hard to wring sustenance, is now (thanks to scientific monstrosities like high-fructose corn syrup) the chief culprit in our obesity. You could rack up the calories at Loco Pollo too, because the food is so good and they sell it so cheaply. There are sodas in the fridge, but you can bring your own beer or wine, so I suggest you leave the soft drinks alone and rack up your corn-calories the old-fashioned way.

Brian Duff can be reached atbduff@une.edu.

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