Review: Citron

By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  March 4, 2009

The award-winning wine list at Citron is organized so you can opt for a three-glass flight of whites or reds with similar properties. After his gimlet, however, Bill restrained himself and merely enjoyed a glass of Banfi Chianti.

Desserts offered several temptations, especially the carpaccio of fruit with pineapple sorbet. But when I realized that the fruits were not necessarily tropical ones, I decided on the hazelnut chocolate mousse cake ($6.99) with crème Anglaise. The mousse itself was delicious, but neither of us liked the cookie-like bottom, certainly not to be defined as "cake."

In fact, despite a satisfying meal and a patient server, I felt a sense of style over substance at Citron. Several niggling questions contributed to that notion: if the juice used in a blood orange cocktail is not blood orange juice, why is it described that way? If the menu states that a tableside Caesar salad will be prepared for two or more people, why was it done for just one, at a nearby table? (I might have ordered it, if I'd known. Then again, maybe I should have asked.)

Johnette Rodriguez can be reached

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