For serious kids

By BRIAN DUFF  |  August 5, 2009

A lamb dish included some nice tender pieces of spice-rubbed grilled meat, along with sautéed sweetbreads. They were both nicely seasoned and well-executed. They came with an eggplant "tart," which was actually a short cylinder of purple-gray mush. It was so mild you could barely taste any of the sharp flavor of eggplant.

If we are going to take our kids to a nice meal, they should get a good dessert, and there we were disappointed. Our cake was dense, but more banana-bread-dense then the moist-dense one hopes for. But it was good enough for sopping up the big dollop of rich custard it came with, along with halves of slightly tart cherries. And Salt Exchange is good enough if you are going to treat the little people who make your life meaningful to a nice dinner out. They even open early for dinner — at five — a family-friendly touch. For adult fare, Salt Exchange could do with a bit more seasoning. Children like to experiment, and the cuisine at Salt Exchange is experimental as well. Sometimes that method is slow to achieve its best results. The Salt Exchange clearly has, as Brooks would appreciate, grand designs and high ambitions. It may take a bit more time to get there.

Brian Duff can be reached at

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , David Brooks, dining, The New York Times,  More more >
| More

Most Popular
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   A LITTLE WHINE  |  September 05, 2014
    The lessons of Lolita are that something simpler and less challenging can be lovely, and that some cheap wine could really loosen things up.
  •   TACOS ON THE TOWN  |  August 31, 2014
    While there’s no class mobility in this town, we do have taco mobility—even taco-class mobility.
  •   COPING WITH ADULTHOOD  |  August 07, 2014
    The neighborhood’s newish Central Provisions is grown up. But it also embodies our ambivalence about adulthood, and our persistent hope that a few more drinks will help us cope with it.
  •   PATHS TO GREATNESS  |  July 31, 2014
    India, like the American university, is mostly in the news these days for its bloated and ineffective administration and an epidemic of underprosecuted sexual assault. But let’s not give up on either—India or college—as a source of wisdom and repository of culture.
  •   THE QUAY TO GOOD LIVING  |  July 11, 2014
    Though they offer an appealing moral clarity, in practice zero tolerance policies have ruined any number of urban schools, fragile marriages, and card-marred soccer games. Zero tolerance almost ruined Portland a few years back, too.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF