The Pirate Girl

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  August 18, 2009

When I noticed that their mac & cheese ($7.99) was beefed up with lobster, I was tempted to get it as a side. But I wanted to try their linguine with clam sauce ($14.99), so no. I chose white sauce, of course, to let the clams more easily come through, and was quite pleased. Five in-shell littlenecks surrounded the al dente pasta, with chopped clams mixed in and more heaped on top, buttery when one might expect just broth and white wine. If pastry chefs can suck up to us with butterfat, why not seafood chefs?

None of us was up for deep-fried seafood, although whole-belly clams always tempt me. Next time, if my hunger dial is at 11, I'll probably go for the Pirate Girl's signature fried platter ($21.99) — fillet, scallops, shrimp, and calamari as well as clams. I'll wait until my grumbling stomach sounds like it's going Arrrgh! 

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