Gustation junction

By BRIAN DUFF  |  September 30, 2009

Secondi were somewhat less impressive. The pork osso bucco was tender but a little bland. It was cooked with orange, which is an interesting choice but maybe better in theory, and served with more mushy white bean. Sweet scallops drizzled with a sweeter thick balsamic worked well with strips of earthy mushroom. A chocolate walnut torte for dessert was unremarkable.

As long as The Corner Room holds this corner it will be fine. But as fans of The Wire know, holding a corner takes vigilance. If you wander too far down the wrong path you're in trouble, and a recent visit to eat at the bar of Smith's Grill Room revealed terrible service and sloppy cooking. It doesn't help The Corner Room's bid for authenticity that the recently opened Paciarino does it so effortlessly. The baker's table stuck conspicuously at the back of The Corner Room's dining area seems like a parody of an Italian kitchen. The food doesn't taste like a parody, however, and that is the important thing.

Brian Duff can be reached at

THE CORNER ROOM | 110 Exchange St, Portland | Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10 pm; Sat 5-10 pm; Sun 4-9 pm | Visa/MC/AMEX/DISC | 207.879.4747

< prev  1  |  2  | 
Related: Classic Italian, In with the new, Mix and match, More more >
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Italian Food and Cooking,  More more >
| More

Most Popular
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   THE QUAY TO GOOD LIVING  |  July 11, 2014
    Though they offer an appealing moral clarity, in practice zero tolerance policies have ruined any number of urban schools, fragile marriages, and card-marred soccer games. Zero tolerance almost ruined Portland a few years back, too.
  •   BITING INTO THE FANTASY  |  July 10, 2014
    Is it a sign of the shallowness of our national culture that we have spent half a decade excited by the idea of food served from trucks? Sure. But is it a symptom of some deeper condition? I suspect so. This summer offers a chance to investigate thanks to the arrival of a critical mass of food trucks around Portland, along with the film Chef, about a restaurant chef who starts a food truck.  
  •   A RAIL-CAR PALACE IN BIDDEFORD  |  June 11, 2014
    The barrel roofed train-car looks incredibly good given it’s nearly a century old.
  •   FINDING BALANCE IN BRISKET  |  June 06, 2014
    Salvage might suggest a plausible strategy to...salvage the distinctive experience of casual dining in Maine.
  •   THREE TIMES LUCKY  |  May 16, 2014
    Miyake’s new diner reclaims the location of his original restaurant, the wonderful Food Factory. 

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF