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Size matters

By BRIAN DUFF  |  May 18, 2007

Perhaps it’s because the cuts of meat and fish are a bit small that the kitchen seems to give them a touch too much heat. The tuna seemed seared a hair long, but was creamy and sweet enough to work nicely with its sharp pepper crust and the gingery sauce. Tender soba noodles, unheralded by the menu, hid underneath. The lamb seemed a bit past medium rare, but was still tender and had that sharp lamby flavor. It seemed odd at first to encounter a classic gravy like what you get with turkey, but it worked just fine. The kitchen agreed to substitute halibut for the salmon that usually comes with a sesame scallion and ginger crust — a combination that worked well with the fish’s sweeter flakier flesh. Tenderloin was delicious in an earthy mushroom sauce. No one will complain about the portion size in the house-made ice cream, stuffed with brownies and doused in rum.

I wish Turin had put some of the energy he put into his mission statement into choosing a better pattern for the fabric that covers the booths and chairs. If we must have a mission, then let us abolish fabric that looks like it should be on luggage.

Email the author
Brian Duff: bduff@une.edu

David’s 388 | 388 Cottage Road, South Portland | 207.347.7388 | Full Bar | Visa, MC, AmEx

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Related: Susana Cullina, MuQueCa’s fried yucca with carne del sol, Going for broke, More more >
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Foods,  More more >
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