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Morning munchies

Restaurant Reviews

Group effort

Because the space is so wide open, a great deal of the ambience at Chef et al. involved this quirky staff (making the restaurant’s name highly appropriate). It is fortunate then that this group is so pleasant and earnest. They have their own unique quirks (a Lisa Loeb-type cutey, an arty/mod girl, a gay guy with designer frames, a friendly jock) but seem united by a genuine enthusiasm for the restaurant and for good service. It felt slightly like the Waiting for Guffman crowd had opened a restaurant.

• Clark Frasier
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• University of Southern Maine
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• Culture and Lifestyle
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Of course what makes the Guffman crowd so entertaining is that they actually have talent despite the awkward situations they improvise within. We felt the same way at Chef et al. Chef/owner Tom Johnson worked as sous-chef to Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier at MC Perkins Cove in Ogunquit. This gives him a more impressive pedigree than the chefs at some more-hyped restaurant openings this year. At his own place Johnson is sending out food that Frasier and Gaier might appreciate.

Carrot apple bisque drizzled with crème fraiche was attractive in its bowl and refreshing on a warm night. It had strong sugars and a bit of the texture of applesauce, but also an undercurrent of vegetative earthiness. A spinach and strawberry salad was also summery and sweet, with little bits of candied walnut, big chunks of fruit, and a smooth chevre.

Sweet notes were also the rule in a very good house-brined turkey sandwich. The mango chutney and red onion jam added neon colors and soaked the crisp toast, but did not obscure the juicy, salty turkey sliced just thick enough. We got it with the orange-brown honey truffle frites, which spoke of honey more than truffle. Mussels steamed in a broth of Guinness, mustard, and caramelized onions finally introduced some more tangy and bitter flavors. Dark onions and delicious brown-speckled broth clung to every fat and creamy mollusk.

The flatbread of the day was a pretty straightforward sausage pie with mild meat and cheese. The duck and sausage entrée was more interesting and impressive. While the skin was barely crispy, the flesh was juicy and tender. It came on top of a large serving of very creamy polenta spotted with halved grapes and topped with chard. Particularly as long as the chard and sausage held out, this dish balanced the dominant sweet-corn flavor nicely.

We tried a few of the house-made desserts and were pleased. A lemon cheesecake with blueberries managed to be light and offered real citrus zing to complement fresh blueberries. A flourless chocolate cake also avoided heaviness even as it was rich. Sundaes served with cookies or brownies were deeply comforting and delicious.

So the food impressed. Chef et al.’s fate, however, will largely depend upon the public’s reaction to its location and slightly odd building (an old automechanic's, now colored dulce de leche inside and out). That USM neighborhood is populated by students, who are basically still kids, and people who are raising kids of their own. Each group probably cares less about how elegant a room looks than the childless adults downtown they sandwich demographically. Chef et al. offers the first good elegant meal in their neighborhood. Students, teachers (including professors), and restaurant workers get sizeable discounts after 10, which is a good idea. If it is to flourish as a neighborhood place, it would really help to find a way to knock about $4 off the entrée prices (and see the profits from the bar tick up?).

Brian Duff can be reached atbduff@une.edu.

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