Entrees range from the homey (takes on a burger and mac ‘n cheese) to the elegant. I was glad to see that, though Harmon is now liberated from Street's cult of Pisces, there are still some interesting seafood options. The sautéed fluke piccata was prepared with that familiar excellence. The fish was light, flakey and a little buttery, and not overwhelmed by the capers. It is really nice to have a place to get Street and Co. excellence in seafood even if your companions are not in the mood for fish.
Things are so pleasant at Caiola’s that small missteps are easily forgiven. I enjoyed my ribeye, but the béarnaise, a cool dollop perched on a slice of orange, left me a little cool as well. I tasted the orange and perhaps mustard when I craved stronger flavors of tarragon and shallots. Caiola’s gets most of the details right — like side vegetables that are nicely roasted, fresh, and delicious. One exception was the Jerusalem artichokes — a puree that was an interesting idea but too sweet, and ultimately brought to mind baby food. We liked the womb-like room, but that took us back too far. A lovely chocolate torte, however, transported us just far enough. Rich and creamy, it reminded us ever so slightly of the flavor of the old Hostess choco-bliss. It was just another of the many pleasures at Caiola’s that feel so easy and familiar.
Caiola’s | 58 Pine St., Portland | 207.772.1110
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Email the author:
Brian Duff: bduff@une.edu
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