The accompanying starches were perfectly cooked and seasoned, outdone only by the tender, balsamic-infused eggplant salad of sorts. Phenomenal. We finally addressed the tortellini Bolognese, then simultaneously put down our forks, and paused with eyes wide open; not often will a bowl of pasta leave you speechless. Bigazzi beamed with a prideful smile when we acknowledged the fresh-grated nutmeg in this simple, yet masterful presentation.
I was initially disappointed to learn that the coniglio in umido (rabbit braised with olives, served atop polenta) was unavailable, but all was forgotten when my spaghetti allo seoglio arrived with a boatload of cuttlefish, calamari (tentacles intact — hallelujah!), and diced clams, accented by a distinctly clean and fruity olive oil. All three plates were wiped clean.
It was a bit late for Bigazzi’s signature tableside flambé desserts, and he instead headed back to prep his tortino di risotto al forno, a rice cake sautéed in rum and topped with dried fruits. Each bite revealed layers of crisp, dense, and chewy textures like a warm oatmeal cookie.
Chef Alfie then poured a round of Chianti and delivered a plate of that smoked mozzarella with thin, fresh-baked foccacia crisps to officially end the evening. He broke down the math as he delivered our tab, $50 for all three entrees. What? The appetizer plates were $8 apiece and our dessert under $10. To say we were elated to have stumbled upon this place is an incalculable understatement.
San Vivaldo newbies may find Bigazzi initially abrasive (just remember: futbol and Fiats), but nothing could be further from the truth. While recently recommending San Vivaldo to a friend, an eavesdropper chimed in, “escargot, veal scallopini and crepes Suzette for dessert; perfect every time.” As if we needed three more reasons to revisit Chef Alfie.
ChrisConti can be reached atbuckeebrooks@gmail.com.
