Tasted before anything spicy, the asparagus chicken in lemongrass sauce ($12.95) received varying reports. There could have been more lemongrass coming through, but Johnnie didn't mind and Tarra said she preferred that delicate hint to it overpowering the dish.
I've gotten so fond of well-prepared eggplant dishes in Chinese restaurants that I had to order the eggplant with Hunan sauce ($7.95). It was a nice addition, containing a Christmas party of red and green bell pepper slices, a sprinkling of firm noodles for contrast, and a few sautéed garlic cloves to flaunt the dominant accent.
The hit of the array was ants on the tree ($7.95), our noodle choice. It was unexpectedly hotter than the hot and sour soup (you may request the degree you prefer, so do so), but the clear vermicelli retained some bite, with ground pork "ants" in every forkful. Aromatically infused with dry spices rather than a sauce, it tasted almost smoky.
I sure am looking forward to checking out the three dozen lunchtime specials at China Inn. Maybe I'll even spring for the scallion pancakes.
Bill Rodriguez can be reached at bill@billrod.com.
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