As major American cities go, Boston is about as far as you can get from Mexico. Is it any wonder that your friend from California pities you when you go off on another soliloquy about oysters and lobster rolls? Those delicacies go out of season, he says, but the burrito never does. Rest assured that you need only a trip to Taco Mex to convince him that you can match wits in a burrito-appreciation session.

Taco Mex is a study in natural-wood colors, which provide a neutral backdrop for the lively salsa playing on the jukebox. The menu here classifies the cuisine as “Latin and Mexican,” so in addition to your expected quesadillas ($6.50), chicken and beef fajitas ($11), and loaded burritos ($4.75–$6.50) — all of which are served with or on from-scratch tortillas — they offer a range of dishes with roots in Colombia, Ecuador, and Venezuela. You’re offered a choice of fried plantains or papas fritas (read: French fries) with many of the main platters. The sweetness of the plantains complements the saltiness of the filete de pescado ($12), a grilled haddock entrée, but we’re getting ahead of ourselves.

To start, a thin but substantial puposa ($1.75) or steaming steak taco ($1.75–$2) is a fine diversion while you wait for your meal. Or try the spicy, cilantro-heavy shrimp ceviche ($8), made with thick chunks of tomato, onion, and shrimp. The translation on the Spanish menu is “shrimp cocktail,” which explains its clever presentation in a deep margarita cup. By the time you’ve drained the glass, your burrito will be ready. When that’s finished, it’ll be time to call your friend in California.

Taco Mex, located at 65-67 Maverick Square, East Boston | open daily, 7 am - 11 pm | 617.568.2838.