DoughMaverick Square rises May 18,
2007 10:04:40 AM
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One of the most fantastic views of the Beantown skyline is from East Boston’s Maverick Square waterfront. With a relatively narrow expanse of harbor, the city is close enough to reach by canoe. Eager, glad-handing developers know the area’s a gem, even if cafés have been slow to share space with new condos. Dough, however, is betting the transformation will stick. The little sandwich shop, a block from the old, arch-front Boston Fuel building, delivers a menu with everything (and I do mean everything) from pizza to pasta, salad to soup. A sandwich like The Border Street ($6.95) — a breaded chicken cutlet, blanketed by mozzarella, prosciutto, basil, balsamic vinegar, and tomatoes on a crusty, braided roll — takes two hands to eat. The dense Vermonter ($6.95) — thick slices of multi-grain bread bookending turkey, smoked gouda, bacon, apples, and sun-dried tomato mayo — will knock you for a loop. Start with those, because the choices are overwhelming, with Reubens, Cubanos, and Phillies on one side, calzones, strombolis, and Italian subs on the other. Then, factor in thin-crust pizzas like the Lyla ($9.95/12-inch; $13.95/16-inch), with white sauce, artichoke hearts, goat cheese, red peppers, and kalamata olives, or the Ricky ($8.95/$11.95) with sausage and pepperoncini. There’s little the Dough boys can’t whip up. If only the place felt less bland, less like the waiting room at Jiffy Lube. Adding character would be easy. Scenes from Tommy Lee Jones’s Blown Away, Scorsese’s The Departed, and Kevin Spacey’s 21 were shot within walking distance of Dough’s address. Trumpet that. After all, nothing about the rebirth of Maverick is subtle.
Dough, located at 20 Maverick Street, in East Boston, is open Monday through Friday, from 11 am to 9 pm, and on Saturday, from 1 to 9 pm. Call 617.567.8787.
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