Review: China Taste

By BRIAN DUFF  |  January 25, 2012

Three other dishes showed off the various takes on classic brown sauce available at China Taste. Kung pao chicken added a mild but persistent heat with its dried chilis. Specks of pepper clung to the meat, while big pieces of carrot, cabbage broccoli stalk, and green pepper, along with the peanuts, added crunch. The vegetarian delight starts with a similar base sauce, but with a bit less of both sugar and heat. This allows the savory notes of mushrooms, cabbage, and especially big chewy-soft pieces of bean curd to predominate. Broccoli, carrot, baby corn, and peapods round out the dish. The Szechuan spicy chicken is a close cousin to the kung pao, but with much bigger slices of chicken breast, and a different mix of veggies — notably big crunchy pieces of celery stalk and soft broccoli florets.

China Taste's best gesture toward tradition might be its huge servings for less than $10. Prices for ethnic food have crept up, but at China Taste it is like the 1990s. For buffet prices you get something much better, and something comforting rather than disturbing.

Brian Duff can be reached at bduff@une.edu.

CHINA TASTE 1223 Washington Ave, Portland | Sun-Thurs 11 am-10 pm; Fri-Sat 11 am-11 pm | Visa/MC/Disc | 207.878.1388

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , China, food, restaurants,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BRIAN DUFF
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   COPING WITH ADULTHOOD  |  August 07, 2014
    The neighborhood’s newish Central Provisions is grown up. But it also embodies our ambivalence about adulthood, and our persistent hope that a few more drinks will help us cope with it.
  •   PATHS TO GREATNESS  |  July 31, 2014
    India, like the American university, is mostly in the news these days for its bloated and ineffective administration and an epidemic of underprosecuted sexual assault. But let’s not give up on either—India or college—as a source of wisdom and repository of culture.
  •   THE QUAY TO GOOD LIVING  |  July 11, 2014
    Though they offer an appealing moral clarity, in practice zero tolerance policies have ruined any number of urban schools, fragile marriages, and card-marred soccer games. Zero tolerance almost ruined Portland a few years back, too.
  •   BITING INTO THE FANTASY  |  July 10, 2014
    Is it a sign of the shallowness of our national culture that we have spent half a decade excited by the idea of food served from trucks? Sure. But is it a symptom of some deeper condition? I suspect so. This summer offers a chance to investigate thanks to the arrival of a critical mass of food trucks around Portland, along with the film Chef, about a restaurant chef who starts a food truck.  
  •   A RAIL-CAR PALACE IN BIDDEFORD  |  June 11, 2014
    The barrel roofed train-car looks incredibly good given it’s nearly a century old.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF