Bill had landed on the classic Reuben ($7.95), with corned beef, Swiss, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing on marble rye. He was astounded at the generous portion of corned beef and the fact that it was chopped for easier eating. The owners truly have sharp instincts for taste-testing their sandwiches!

Their loyal (and growing) following of both locals and out-of-towners attest to their sensible approach to service — you order at the counter and are given a plastic lobster that buzzes when your food is ready — and their sensitivity to customers' needs and wishes. A dad with two young kids treated them to hot dogs; another father with his teenage daughter indulged in burgers; an elderly dad with his adult daughter enjoyed a half tuna sandwich and a cup of soup ($8.50). That kind of place.

Because I love the everyday stories of life, and I like to include them in these reviews, here's one from the Beach Rose: a middle-aged guy at the counter was intrigued when he learned I was doing a restaurant review for the Phoenix and whispered, sheltering his voice behind two palms, edge to edge, "Is it for the adult section?"

Johnette Rodriguez can be reached at  johnette.rodriguez@cox.net.

BEACH ROSE CAFÉ | 401.295.2800 | BEACHROSECAFE.COM | 85 BROWN ST, WICKFORD | DAILY, 7 AM-3 PM | MAJOR CREDIT CARDS | BEER + WINE | SIDEWALK-LEVEL ACCESSIBLE

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