Our last surprise came with our check: two tiny lemon madeleines (no wonder these cookies set Proust off on his boundless journey in Remembrance of Things Past). Many of the items in our dishes are present in other configurations on the regular menu at Hourglass. The wine list is French and French-inspired; the cocktails have a good reputation.

With 19 French posters, most of them related to alcoholic beverages, hanging on three of the dining room's high-ceilinged walls, one might expect such. From the crisp linens, the tiny brass hourglasses on each table, and those plush chairs, one could also assume high quality food and service would be forthcoming . . . and so they were.

Obviously, we were quite pleased with our visit to Hourglass Brasserie, and we are encouraged to try more new-to-us places during Providence (and beyond) Restaurant Week.

Johnette Rodriguez can be reached at  johnette.rodriguez@cox.net.

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