The surprise for both of us was the delectable smokiness of the fried rice, replete with asparagus pieces and scrambled egg bits but no meat, as requested. Looking at the regular menu, I think it might have been the "very traditional Young Chow fried rice" without the ham, shrimp, and chicken.

For dessert, we chose ginger and red bean ice creams (there was also green tea and coconut), and they were served with a generous garnish of whipped cream. The ginger gave stiff competition to our favorite ginger ice cream (Brickley's), and the red bean had character.

How could it not, in a place with so much character? For devotees of Ko's other restaurants, fear not: the nime chow and littlenecks with black bean sauce is on the menu, plus those long lists of sushi and maki rolls. There's also a fistful of tropical cocktails, including the Scorpion Bowl (two rums, brandy, fruit juices) and a lengthy lineup of martinis. So if you get as lost in the menu as you do in the décor, you'll have the full Jacky's Waterplace experience.

Johnette Rodriguez can be reached at  johnette.rodriguez@cox.net.

JACKY'S WATERPLACE |401.383.5000 | JACKYSWATERPLACE.COM | 200 EXCHANGE ST, PROVIDENCE | MON-THURS, 11:30 AM-10:30 PM; FRI, 11:30 AM-MIDNIGHT; SAT, 1 PM-MIDNIGHT; SUN, 4-10:30 PM | MAJOR CREDIT CARDS | FULL BAR | SIDEWALK-LEVEL ACCESSIBLE

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