If Asia-meets-New England sounds like an odd theme, in execution it works brilliantly. The Asian approach to seafood, with its lightness and emphasis on clarity of flavor, has a lot to offer over our gloppy American traditions. It was food based on ideas that sound a little crazy, but work wonderfully, that earned Rob Evans's Hugo's its national reputation. Seeing one theme work so well at Eventide is the perfect advertisement for the more eclectic collection of experiments these same chefs are undertaking next door. Leaving Eventide, you can't help but wonder what unexpected gems these guys are sending out on the other side of the kitchen.

EVENTIDE OYSTER COMPANY | 86 Middle St, Portland | 207.774.8538 |  eventideoysterco.com | Visa/MC/Amex/Disc | 11 am-midnight

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