Surprises await
By LIZ BOMZE | August 8, 2006
That Cambridge’s Thai Kitchen is not quite a diamond in the rough compared with some of its neighboring competitors is actually just fine. Take the expectations down a notch — this isn’t going to be ethereal Bangkok street food, nor is it the latest shabby-chic project of some celebrity chef — and you’re bound to be pleasantly surprised. We’re talking cubic zirconia here. Appropriately named, the Mass Ave eatery is little more than a quasi-open kitchen and a roomy window-front with some deuces and a pair of four-tops. But it works: it’s humble and affordable to a fault, with some very tasty options.
Exceptionally crunchy crab Rangoon satchels ($1.95) filled with warm, oozing crab and cream cheese are a good first bet — and you know they’re fresh from the snappy pops of oil in the background. Follow that up with pad see yu ($6.25), which brings together a satisfying balance of salty and sweet. More adventurous palates should seek out crispy rose shrimp ($8.95) and wild-boar basil ($8.25); you won’t be eating roses (or boars, for that matter — the latter is actually sliced pork and vegetables in a spicy coconut-milk sauce reminiscent of Thai green curry), but the abundant shrimp are jumbo size and tangy from a piquant chili sauce.
And, finally, the bonus for dining in-house: a complimentary dish of vanilla ice cream. Sweet.
Thai Kitchen, 2261 Mass Ave, Cambridge |Mon - Thur, 11:30 am - 10 pm; Fri & Sat, 11:30 am - 11 pm; Sun, noon - 10 pm | 617.354.7070.
