Abbondanza alla Eastie
By PHIL AMARA | September 13, 2006
East Boston’s culinary résumé runs the gamut. In the 1960s, Michael Valerio started the Papa Gino’s chain here, though it was called Piece O’ Pizza then. It’s also the boyhood home of Pino Maffeo, who’s been helming Restaurant L and was recently named one of Food & Wine magazine’s best new chefs. But Eastie’s workaday life force comes from family-run bakeries, sandwich shops, and intimate ristorantes mostly tucked away on residential streets. And on the fringe of Day Square, unassuming Mario’s has been attracting locals for decades. How? Simply by dishing up small mountains of delicious, home-style Italian soul food. The breaded, pan-fried chicken limone ($14.75) comes swathed in a lemony, amber-tinted cream sauce with pillow-like button mushrooms. Veal alla Ursula ($16.75) is blanketed in delicately fried eggplant, tangy tomato sauce, and mozzarella. Chicken Lisa ($14.75) is studded with artichoke hearts, broccoli, mushrooms, and zucchini.
To say that portions are generous is an understatement. With pasta, salad, and bread — from Eastie bakery Papa’s — included, you’ll definitely want to don your stretchy pants before inhaling the linguine in clam sauce ($13.95) or lobster-crab ravioli ($16.95); one entrée is easily enough for you and a dining pal. The wine list includes Ruffino Chianti; chardonnay; and a dry, mellow Orvieto, all by the bottle. Service here is impeccable: waitresses are friendly and attentive, with a loving, motherly dash of colloquial sass.
Mario’s, 347 Chelsea Street, East Boston | Mon - Thur, 11:30 am - 2 pm and 5 - 9 pm; Fri, 11:30 am - 2 pm and 5 - 10 pm; Sat, 5 - 10 pm | 617.567.8608
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