When you think warm family restaurant you don’t normally think Newport. And with Sardella’s, we’re talking family in the grown-up sense, the place for a round of grappa after the meal, rather than conversing over the squeals of sibling rivalry at the next table.
This being an Italian restaurant goes far by way of explanation, of course. The likelihood of family photos in a corridor goes up, even with cloth napkins on the tables. Here not only are photos snatched from a scrapbook on view, but the menu sports a picture of proprietor Richard Sardella’s mustachioed grandfather looking very old country and early last century, young and mischievous. Roots-based cooking is the promise, even though the chef is a Fitzgerald (but more about that later).
There’s seating for more than 300 at the height of summer season, with street, side-room, and garden patios. Stepping inside is nonetheless immediately inviting in the winter, with a roaring wood stove across from the bar at the entrance.
The dining area where we were seated was a bit dim, yet attractive, with half-wall dark wainscoting and varnished wood tables. The breadbasket came promptly and included an herb- and salt-topped focaccia, as well as good Italian bread with the flavorful olive oil. There’s a wide choice of wines by the glass, and the $5.50 house wines are drinkable — and include Champagne.
There are other touches that answer our occasional needs to dine out on the cheap. Half orders are available for some pasta dishes, and a $20 dinner for two special (main course only) on Monday and Tuesday nights includes a bottle of wine.
Appetizers include usual suspects as well as escargot ($11.95). We started with a bowl of mussels in white wine sauce ($9.95) that was fresh, plentiful and in a sauce that bread-dipping is made for.
The opportunity for half orders came in handy for the dainty appetites of our friends Kate and Mollie. (Besides, the inevitable doggie bag proportions of generous pasta dishes may be a treat the next day, but at restaurant prices.) Both made wonderful choices. The ravioli alla panna e prosciutto ($14.95/$10.95) was in a rich, creamy sauce that had not only the pieces of ham and also lots of fresh basil, which breathed summer into the dish. The gemilini e pollo al funghi ($16.95/$11.95) was similar yet very different, twisted pasta in a tangy Gorgonzola cream sauce, with pieces of grilled chicken and portobello mushrooms. It was quite delicious.
Johnnie and I felt professionally obliged to check on the two-fers. Since we’d ordered wine separately, our entrées were a mere $11.95 for both. And like the more than adequate half portions above, the sizes were ample enough. My pork loin was not a thick cut as I’d expected, but rather two pounded hand-sized portions, lightly breaded and sautéed, topped with a caper sauce and served next to skin-on mashed potatoes. I was quite pleased. Johnnie, however, was quite disappointed at eggplant rollatini that were not thin and rolled, per definition, but rather thick, underdone, and topped with a marinara too bland for her. There was al dente linguini, though.
