Review: Local Sprouts Cafe

By BRIAN DUFF  |  September 8, 2010

Haddock is not frequently blackened, but Local Sprouts does so to terrific effect. The fish stayed light and tender beneath a slightly spicy, peppery coating. The accompanying kale was touched by some sugar and vinegar, but mostly suffused with terrific green-bitter flavor. "Jamaican brown stew chicken" was not as wet as it sounds. The tender, moist, half chicken had been soaked in a salty-herby marinade and sautéed until it resembled a darker, earthier coq au vin. It came with greens, potatoes, and brown rice, all suffused by the meat's juices. Both entrées came with half an ear of sweet and tender corn, and both (remarkably) were just $12.

While the dinner service deserves more attention, Local Sprouts seems to be getting more buzz as a breakfast place. You can see why if you order the buckwheat pancakes, thin, sort of crêpe-like and not too sweet, with maple syrup or fresh fruit (a slightly sour sauce that seemed like raspberries and rhubarb). Egg sandwiches, filled with fresh local ingredients like mushrooms and pesto, were a bit mushy and quite good.

While collectives might seem like an escape from the rigors of individualism, the great theorist of collectives saw it differently. To be loved in a community where human values prevail over cash values, Marx explained, "you must . . . have a truly stimulating and encouraging effect on others." The food at Local Sprouts certainly meets that test.

Brian Duff can be reached at bduff@une.edu.

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Food Features , Seafood, food, vegetables,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BRIAN DUFF
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   COPING WITH ADULTHOOD  |  August 07, 2014
    The neighborhood’s newish Central Provisions is grown up. But it also embodies our ambivalence about adulthood, and our persistent hope that a few more drinks will help us cope with it.
  •   PATHS TO GREATNESS  |  July 31, 2014
    India, like the American university, is mostly in the news these days for its bloated and ineffective administration and an epidemic of underprosecuted sexual assault. But let’s not give up on either—India or college—as a source of wisdom and repository of culture.
  •   THE QUAY TO GOOD LIVING  |  July 11, 2014
    Though they offer an appealing moral clarity, in practice zero tolerance policies have ruined any number of urban schools, fragile marriages, and card-marred soccer games. Zero tolerance almost ruined Portland a few years back, too.
  •   BITING INTO THE FANTASY  |  July 10, 2014
    Is it a sign of the shallowness of our national culture that we have spent half a decade excited by the idea of food served from trucks? Sure. But is it a symptom of some deeper condition? I suspect so. This summer offers a chance to investigate thanks to the arrival of a critical mass of food trucks around Portland, along with the film Chef, about a restaurant chef who starts a food truck.  
  •   A RAIL-CAR PALACE IN BIDDEFORD  |  June 11, 2014
    The barrel roofed train-car looks incredibly good given it’s nearly a century old.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF