My fish cakes contained both cod and salmon, sparked with scallions and topped with a mild aioli. What I liked most was that, similar to crab cakes, the seafood was just barely held together with an invisible thickener, in contrast to some New England versions which use quite a bit of mashed potato and fewer bits of fish.

A word about the carefully chosen international wine list. I like its organization by types of whites and then a few "interesting whites," including a German Riesling by the glass; and the same organizing principle for the reds, with two "interesting reds" being Argentinian Malbecs.

And now to the more British Isles side of the menu: the desserts (each $7), which include panna cotta but also chocolate Guinness cake and sticky toffee pudding, a recipe garnered from Scotland's Skibo Castle. It was, as our waitress aptly put it, "dangerously delicious," a large square of piping-hot cake, not too sweet, very moist, very buttery — a wonderful ending to this meal.

Johnette Rodriguez can be reached at

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