Review: Stone Bridge

Mykonos classics and Italian favorites
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  June 21, 2011

At the Stone Bridge restaurant, there is competition for our attention. Its Tiverton water view is appealing enough, with requisite wheeling gulls and sails in the distance. But on my most recent visit, my eyes kept lingering on the appealing dishes before me, at least after I tasted them.

The chef/proprietor is Nick Chrisochoidis, and he was raised in Thessalonika, so there are plenty of Greek items and touches in other dishes. The other noticeable flavor of the menu is Italian, which is no surprise considering that there are probably more Athenians than Neapolitans operating pizzerias in this country. The restaurant used to be named Mykonos, before the chef broadened his offerings.

Stone Bridge | 401.625.5780 |1848 Main Rd, Tiverton | Sun-Thurs, 11:30 am-9 pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30 am-10 pm | Major Credit Cards | Full Bar | Sidewalk-Level Accessible

The place is attractive inside, with bare dark wood tables and burgundy lace draped around rods above wide picture windows, one of which has a Venus de Milo statue gazing off from its ledge. On my visit, a chalkboard of specials included a couple of interesting salads: duck breast ($17.99) and grilled chicken with sautéed mushrooms ($13.99). Even steak is being tossed onto salads these days, so it's good to see further options. The regular menu here offers additions from grilled scallops and shrimp to lobster salad.

There are only three appetizers on the regular menu but twice as many on the evening specials list, including grilled marinated quail (two for $8.99). The regular choices are fried calamari, of course, and mussels in wine sauce (both $9.95), and shrimp in red sauce ($13.95). Fortunately, we chose that last one: a half-dozen beautifully grilled medium shrimp, placed on the edge of the sauce to not spoil the appetizing sight, served with slices of toasted Italian bread across from them and a sprinkling of shredded basil leaves. But the magical part was the bits of feta in the tart-sweet San Marzano marinara, adding just the right saltiness. A must-have dish. As our waitress remarked, "That sauce, you could eat it with a spoon."

Chrisochoidis has a wood grill rather than gas, so its opportunities are not to be overlooked (those shrimp were superb). They include pork and veal chops as well as sirloin and filet mignon; salmon is a possibility, too, and I imagine a smoky rendition would be exceptional. Among "Mykonos Classics" is lamb kebab ($19.95) and Greek sausage ($16.95), two more grilled favorites. Other menu categories include pastas, parmigianas, and piccatas, as well as fried seafood and seafood casseroles.

Starting out, I considered New England clam chowder ($3.25/$4.25), deciding yes when told it was a broth version. This was the only disappointment of the meal, cloudy but not very flavorful. Straight, undiluted clam broth is my preference, which could be too clammy for some tastes, but this was bland.

That was well made up for by my choice of entrée, the chicken with fig sauce ($19.95). The two thick chicken fillets weren't grilled past moistness. There was a generous amount of sliced figs and their juices, plus goat cheese — and not feta but rather a soft chevre, even more suitable. I always appreciate getting a choice of vegetable and starch, and I chose stewed peas rather than broccoli and herbed roasted potatoes rather than rice. All quite satisfying.

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  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Seafood, Tiverton, Stone Bridge,  More more >
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