Review: Gogi

By BRIAN DUFF  |  July 6, 2011

Outside of tacos, Gogi offers some pretty good dumplings. The shrimp shumai in particular were a terrific plump and sweet, while the pork offered a vinegary sourness. Gogi also makes quesadillas filled with kimchi, cheese, and various meats and veggies. They are filling and comforting, but not as appealing as the tacos. The kimchi adds a nice sour zing to some bites, but gets slimy in others.

Décor is definitely an afterthought at Gogi, but late-night crowds (they are open till 2 am most nights) will bring their own atmosphere. If Gogi is going to put more thought somewhere, they might vary the veggie toppings a bit among their tacos, and offer a "double meat" option, which has become popular for Korean tacos farther west. If Gogi follows the American practice of thoughtful experimentalism, they can build on their existing strengths.

Brian Duff can be reached at bduff@une.edu.

GOGI | 653 Congress St, Portland | Sun-Tues 11 am-11 pm; Wed-Sat 11 am-2 am | Visa/MC/Amex | 207.899.4325

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