Review: Trafford

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  September 14, 2011

Since my dining companion had been here recently and could wax rhapsodic about their grilled wild salmon ($21) and pan-roasted cod, with chorizo and shellfish ($23), I chose the grilled lamb sirloin ($24). The tender lamb was wonderful, but the topping of tzatziki hardly hinted of garlic, a main component of the traditional Greek condiment, which here was just delicately season-ed yogurt. Making up for that were luscious fingerling potatoes and chickpeas that were fried to retain their moisture, a clever idea.

The sandwich I took home was described as a Parmesan-dusted haddock brioche ($10). It was fresh and sautéed lightly breaded, accented with a lemon-caper tartar sauce. It was served with enough mixed greens to amount to a side salad, though the sandwiches can come with fried russet potatoes. Tasty, but spoiled by a big no-no reprise: it was served in a hamburger bun instead of a brioche. Restaurants that don't announce substitutions should be picketed. Oh, well. Those chickpeas alone will insure that I don't join the protesters.

Bill Rodriguez can be reached atbill@billrod.com.

Trafford | 401.289.2265 | 285 Water St, Warren | Tues-Sun, 11 am-3 pm; Tues-Thurs + Sun, 5-10 pm; Fri-Sat, 5-11 pm | Major Credit Cards | Full Bar | Sidewalk-Level Accessible

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Wine, Alyn Carlson, restaurants,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BILL RODRIGUEZ
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   TWOTENOYSTER BAR & GRILL  |  July 23, 2014
    One of the appealing features of living in a place called the Ocean State is that there are plenty of water-view restaurants.
  •   BEE'S THAI CUISINE  |  July 16, 2014
    On the radar of Providence foodies, the ding of Bee’s Thai Cuisine has grown increasingly louder and brighter.
  •   THE FINAL COUNTDOWN  |  July 16, 2014
    Strap in for a fast-paced adaptation of Agatha Christie's classic mystery.
  •   A SO-SO SATIRE  |  July 02, 2014
    There’s this poor country whose medium of exchange is goats (actually, promises of parts of a goat — promissory goats).
  •   PROFOUNDLY SILLY  |  June 25, 2014
    It’s been more than a half-century since Eugène Ionesco’s first play, The Bald Soprano , was written in a burst of splenetic post-WWII exasperation over the ludicrous behavior of his species.

 See all articles by: BILL RODRIGUEZ