Review: Trafford

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  September 14, 2011

Since my dining companion had been here recently and could wax rhapsodic about their grilled wild salmon ($21) and pan-roasted cod, with chorizo and shellfish ($23), I chose the grilled lamb sirloin ($24). The tender lamb was wonderful, but the topping of tzatziki hardly hinted of garlic, a main component of the traditional Greek condiment, which here was just delicately season-ed yogurt. Making up for that were luscious fingerling potatoes and chickpeas that were fried to retain their moisture, a clever idea.

The sandwich I took home was described as a Parmesan-dusted haddock brioche ($10). It was fresh and sautéed lightly breaded, accented with a lemon-caper tartar sauce. It was served with enough mixed greens to amount to a side salad, though the sandwiches can come with fried russet potatoes. Tasty, but spoiled by a big no-no reprise: it was served in a hamburger bun instead of a brioche. Restaurants that don't announce substitutions should be picketed. Oh, well. Those chickpeas alone will insure that I don't join the protesters.

Bill Rodriguez can be reached atbill@billrod.com.

Trafford | 401.289.2265 | 285 Water St, Warren | Tues-Sun, 11 am-3 pm; Tues-Thurs + Sun, 5-10 pm; Fri-Sat, 5-11 pm | Major Credit Cards | Full Bar | Sidewalk-Level Accessible

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