Review: Holy Donut

By BRIAN DUFF  |  May 9, 2012

Holy Donuts have been available for many months at cafés across town, but now you can pick them up at their own shop on Park Avenue near Hadlock Field. It doesn't look too much like a traditional doughnut shop, but manages to feel comfortable like one. Big couches fill one side of the room, and a few tables the other. Many customers sit at the counter by the window. The coffee is good (it's Coffee By Design, and includes a special Holy Donut blend). They are planning to offer breakfast sandwiches and other savory food in the near future.

Engaging the infant within us in a way that is responsible and adult is a crucial task for our times. In a culture of consumption such as ours, where even our most responsible public figures, like Paul Krugman, say the only solution to our current problems is to "increase demand" — which means "consume more!" — the experience of regression toward insatiable infantile greed takes on heightened importance. The doughnut has long been among our most infantile and regressive of indulgences. There is a reason they are shaped like that. In growing them up a bit, Holy Donut helps reconcile our infantile greed with our adult capacities.

Holy Donut | 194 Park Ave, Portland | $15/dozen | Mon-Fri 6:30 am-3 pm; Sat 7:30 am-3 pm; Sun 8 am-3 pm | 207.874.7774

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