Does the new Miyake offer a more beautiful, a more perfect, restaurant and meal? Yes. Which is not to say nothing has been lost. The hodge-podge staff has been replaced with a master and his coadjutors. The sense that you discovered something delightful for a song is replaced by the sense that you experienced something extraordinary for a price. When talent is rewarded, it is often transfigured too — and the super-talented often shake off youthful quirks and come to resemble each other in style and taste. The new Miyake reminds you of the best Japanese restaurants in the nation, but the old Miyake reminded you of no other place in the world. We are lucky to have it in either case.

$$ | Miyake | 468 Fore St, Portland | Mon-Sat lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner 5:30-10 pm; Sun 1-9 pm | 207.871.9170

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