The exceptional desserts follow suit with restraint and care, as in the case of a rustic apple tart ($8) with a first-rate pastry crust and house-made vanilla ice cream given a faint richness with brown sugar. Eighteen wines by the glass ($7–$12), another 34 by the bottle (most under $40), and a welcome dozen half-bottles (most under $35) lean young and American, typified by a crispy, tropical-fruit-scented 2010 Duckhorn sauvignon blanc ($29 half) and an easy-drinking 2010 Frog's Leap zinfandel ($32 half) redolent of spice and stone fruits. Whether downtown types will wend the long path to Newton Centre remains to be seen, but locals weary of trekking into the city for thoughtful, subtle, poised cookery, unfettered by pomp or pretension, are bound to flock to Farmstead Table in droves.
WHERE TO FIND IT | 71 Union St, Newton Centre | 617.928.6000
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