If Asia-meets-New England sounds like an odd theme, in execution it works brilliantly. The Asian approach to seafood, with its lightness and emphasis on clarity of flavor, has a lot to offer over our gloppy American traditions. It was food based on ideas that sound a little crazy, but work wonderfully, that earned Rob Evans's Hugo's its national reputation. Seeing one theme work so well at Eventide is the perfect advertisement for the more eclectic collection of experiments these same chefs are undertaking next door. Leaving Eventide, you can't help but wonder what unexpected gems these guys are sending out on the other side of the kitchen.

EVENTIDE OYSTER COMPANY | 86 Middle St, Portland | 207.774.8538 |  eventideoysterco.com | Visa/MC/Amex/Disc | 11 am-midnight

< prev  1  |  2  | 
Related: Report from the Gulf, Oyster quaffing, Campino’s, More more >
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Seafood, oysters
| More

Most Popular
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   LIMITS OF LANGUAGE  |  November 03, 2014
    Is it enlightened or provincial that we Mainers hear “ethnic” and don’t think, as many do, exclusively of non-Europeans?
  •   INFINITE BROOKLYNS  |  October 24, 2014
    Last year some national magazine said that Biddeford is to Portland as Brooklyn is to New York. No. Biddeford is a mash-up of Newburg and Poughkeepsie. It is East Bayside that is our Brooklyn.
  •   START DIGGING HERE  |  October 03, 2014
    Because music is now basically free (thanks to torrents, Pandoras, Spotifies, etc.), the only way for musicians to make money is through constant touring and related merchandise sales. Or they can appear as a judge on The Voice. Food, on the other hand, will still cost ya...
  •   PICK YOUR POISON  |  October 01, 2014
    The National Institutes of Health just published a randomized study that confirms the rumors: carbohydrates are poison and should be avoided. So how should we feel about Slab Sicilian Streetfood?
  •   A LITTLE WHINE  |  September 05, 2014
    The lessons of Lolita are that something simpler and less challenging can be lovely, and that some cheap wine could really loosen things up.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF