Review: Golden Chopstix

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  February 12, 2013

Great little dishes — the shrimp dumplings fully packed, the pork-shrimp versions very meaty, the steamed red bean paste buns a sweet treat. The favorite of the table was the steamed pork rice roll, heavy on cilantro, the rice flour wrappings around the kind of red-edged pork pieces you find in hot and sour soup, in a sweetish sauce. Three circles of "homestyle" eggplant were slightly garlicky, with bits of well-fried ground beef for texture.

To my taste there was only a single miss among all the hits. What sounded most delish proved most disappointing: steamed spareribs, chunks that had as much fat and bone as meat. Much better were the pieces of veal cutlet in black pepper sauce; hardly Provimi, but tasty.

Brought last was what served as dessert, two steamed custard cream buns, filled with a sweet, yolky, golden reward. Nice conclusion.

Dim sum. Fine idea. A happy alternative to making a meal of a table spread with pricey appetizers.

GOLDEN CHOPSTIX |401.348.6666 | LETSEAT.AT/GOLDENCHOPSTIX | 62 FRANKLIN ST, WESTERLY | SUN-THURS, 10 AM-9:30 PM; FRI-SAT, 10 AM-10 PM | MAJOR CREDIT CARDS | FULL BAR | SIDEWALK-LEVEL ACCESSIBLE

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  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , China, dim sum, Chinese
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