Come to Maine, stay Phoever

By BRIAN DUFF  |  October 2, 2013

A dish of wok-steamed pepper steak was the only one we tried that broke the pattern, forgoing brightness and crunch to go all in on the savory and bitter. The slices of beef in this dish were thick, rich, and tender. The watercress was so thick and sharp it had the qualities of broccoli rabe. With green peppers, it soaked up the beef’s richness and some sweet/sour broth that accentuated the vegetable’s bitter notes.

The pepper steak is a good dish, but seemed to violate the lighter spirit of Phoever Maine, which is so much of its appeal. Moving halfway across the planet, finding work, saving up, and staking it all on a new venture is some pretty heavy stuff. Pulling it off with a light touch, a sense of humor, and great skill is truly admirable.

$ PHOEVER MAINE | 100 Larrabee Rd, Westbrook | 11 am-10 pm Tues-Sat, noon-8 pm Sun | Visa/MC/Amex | 207.887.9093

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