Understated flavor

By BRIAN DUFF  |  January 23, 2008

Elegant but affordable, progressive but pleasurable, pan-Asian but not dangerously eclectic, a touch didactic (a glossary chalked on the wall defines tempeh and soy), but charmingly so, with affordable wine and interesting tea — Green Elephant is something Maine could use. In recent years the vegans of Portland have pressed their cause through foie gras protests and preachy “festivals” (see "Ethical Eating," September 15, 2006, and "The Taste of Sanctimony," May 11, 2007, both by Brian Duff). On the national level vegans turned a manifesto into a best-seller (Skinny Bitch) by packaging animal-rights arguments as diet advice from a fashion model. But while a good model can touch the soul, in the long run vegans will make their arguments best by making food that affirms life through the palate, not despite it. In this way Green Elephant is a big step in the right direction.

Brian Duff can be reached at bduff@une.edu.

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Foods,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BRIAN DUFF
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   START DIGGING HERE  |  October 03, 2014
    Because music is now basically free (thanks to torrents, Pandoras, Spotifies, etc.), the only way for musicians to make money is through constant touring and related merchandise sales. Or they can appear as a judge on The Voice. Food, on the other hand, will still cost ya...
  •   PICK YOUR POISON  |  October 01, 2014
    The National Institutes of Health just published a randomized study that confirms the rumors: carbohydrates are poison and should be avoided. So how should we feel about Slab Sicilian Streetfood?
  •   A LITTLE WHINE  |  September 05, 2014
    The lessons of Lolita are that something simpler and less challenging can be lovely, and that some cheap wine could really loosen things up.
  •   TACOS ON THE TOWN  |  August 31, 2014
    While there’s no class mobility in this town, we do have taco mobility—even taco-class mobility.
  •   COPING WITH ADULTHOOD  |  August 07, 2014
    The neighborhood’s newish Central Provisions is grown up. But it also embodies our ambivalence about adulthood, and our persistent hope that a few more drinks will help us cope with it.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF