In the duck two ways slices of grilled breast commingled with confit, across the rectangular plate from a glob of pureed potatoes. The breast seemed expertly prepared and was terrific in the slightly sweet and pungent sauce spotted with little dark juicy mushrooms. The confit was far chewier than you would have expected. Pan-roasted chicken also offered a dualistic experience. It came with a breast that might have benefited from a more interesting sauce. The leg offered more skin, crisp in spots, still soft in others, that made the dish a bit more interesting.
The important question raised by Mim’s, especially dinner there, is whether there is an overlap between the set of Commercial Street spots that appeal to tourists and the set of restaurants locals might choose for a nice meal. Though Mim’s was a bit underwhelming, it has enough strengths that on a nice night in the summer, I think there is.
MIM’S | 205 Commercial St, Portland | Sun-Mon 9 am-3 pm; Tue-Sat 9 am-3 pm & 5 pm-close | Visa/MC/Amex/Disc | 207.347.7478
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