Morning munchies

By BRIAN DUFF  |  June 18, 2008

Caiola’s, a bit dim on a cloudy morning, looks and feels just like itself. Thanks to its great patio, expert preparations of brunch classics, and reasonable prices, it’s the best of the new West End choices. The bird’s nest, with two soft-yolked eggs tucked into holed toast, was my grandfather’s favorite breakfast. The thin sausage gravy was ladled with enough restraint that it complemented rather than overwhelmed the yolk soaking into the toast. An omelet was perfectly cooked — fluffy but not so airy it lost all the creamy texture of eggs. The crab flavor got lost just a bit in the cream and spiciness of the filling. Hash browns were herby, with small pieces of potato that were crispy without turning into little rocks.

As the slender bartender struggled to shake the world’s largest container of bloody Mary mix, we admired her early-morning dedication to the task just as we admired the way Caiola’s retains all its best qualities even in the light of day.

Brian Duff can be reached atbduff@une.edu.

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Foods,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BRIAN DUFF
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   GIVE 'EM A HAND  |  April 10, 2014
    Pocket-sized comfort foods
  •   EXTREME LOCALISM  |  March 19, 2014
    Perhaps Vinland’s pontifications become white noise, which fades away as you appreciate the food and its distinctive coherence of flavors and textures — the Nordic, astringent, piney, ascetic goodness of it all.
  •   DISTINCTIVE SUBURBAN DINING  |  March 14, 2014
    It is the rare chef, for example, who can make ordering the “veggie plate” seem like a good idea in retrospect — but the one at Oscar’s was fantastic, with a great mix of colors and textures.
  •   CRACKING OUR HARD EXTERIORS  |  February 27, 2014
    These days it is mollusks like oysters, mussels, and clams (rather than crustaceous shellfish, like lobster, crab, and shrimp) that best represent our collective emotional temperament. 
  •   THE SPICE OF LIFE (AND DEATH)  |  February 12, 2014
    In our reverence for herbs and spices  we should detect our contempt for the blander staple ingredients they are often meant to enliven.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF