Morning munchies

By BRIAN DUFF  |  June 18, 2008

Caiola’s, a bit dim on a cloudy morning, looks and feels just like itself. Thanks to its great patio, expert preparations of brunch classics, and reasonable prices, it’s the best of the new West End choices. The bird’s nest, with two soft-yolked eggs tucked into holed toast, was my grandfather’s favorite breakfast. The thin sausage gravy was ladled with enough restraint that it complemented rather than overwhelmed the yolk soaking into the toast. An omelet was perfectly cooked — fluffy but not so airy it lost all the creamy texture of eggs. The crab flavor got lost just a bit in the cream and spiciness of the filling. Hash browns were herby, with small pieces of potato that were crispy without turning into little rocks.

As the slender bartender struggled to shake the world’s largest container of bloody Mary mix, we admired her early-morning dedication to the task just as we admired the way Caiola’s retains all its best qualities even in the light of day.

Brian Duff can be reached

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Foods,  More more >
| More

Most Popular
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   COPING WITH ADULTHOOD  |  August 07, 2014
    The neighborhood’s newish Central Provisions is grown up. But it also embodies our ambivalence about adulthood, and our persistent hope that a few more drinks will help us cope with it.
  •   PATHS TO GREATNESS  |  July 31, 2014
    India, like the American university, is mostly in the news these days for its bloated and ineffective administration and an epidemic of underprosecuted sexual assault. But let’s not give up on either—India or college—as a source of wisdom and repository of culture.
  •   THE QUAY TO GOOD LIVING  |  July 11, 2014
    Though they offer an appealing moral clarity, in practice zero tolerance policies have ruined any number of urban schools, fragile marriages, and card-marred soccer games. Zero tolerance almost ruined Portland a few years back, too.
  •   BITING INTO THE FANTASY  |  July 10, 2014
    Is it a sign of the shallowness of our national culture that we have spent half a decade excited by the idea of food served from trucks? Sure. But is it a symptom of some deeper condition? I suspect so. This summer offers a chance to investigate thanks to the arrival of a critical mass of food trucks around Portland, along with the film Chef, about a restaurant chef who starts a food truck.  
  •   A RAIL-CAR PALACE IN BIDDEFORD  |  June 11, 2014
    The barrel roofed train-car looks incredibly good given it’s nearly a century old.

 See all articles by: BRIAN DUFF