Le Central

By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  July 9, 2008

The wine list is primarily French, and Bill enjoyed his pinot noir, while I had a cup of hot tea, which even had a French twist — tarragon in with the spearmint.

Desserts include a warm apple tart with vanilla gelato, chocolate brioche bread pudding, crème brulée, and lemon ricotta crepes with fruit compote. The special dessert during our visit was a slight twist on the lemon crepes, and we couldn’t resist: lemon curd and summer berry tart ($6.50).

Our helpful waitress plated it separately for us to split, a small rectangle of flaky pastry dough with the tangy lemon sauce and fresh strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, and black-berries. It was quite memorable.

In addition to lunch and brunch, Le Central serves tapas from 5-6:30 p.m. during the week. Luncheon fare includes crab cake remoulade, grilled salmon Nicoise, chicken and mushroom crepes, and croque monsieur (a toasted cheese sandwich with ham and Gruyere). Brunch items have many of the same possibilities, with the addition of omelets and egg Benedict variations.

The servers are impeccably trained, knowledgeable, and attentive. The presence of Edith Piaf on the CD player was the crowning touch of “Frenchness” that enveloped us. Let’s hope that when the rush of the Fourth is over, Bristolians and tourists alike will make this spot a “central” part of their day.

Johnette Rodriguez can be reached atjohnette.rodriguez@cox.net.

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