Mix and match

By BRIAN DUFF  |  August 5, 2008

If you choose the Grill Room over the Front Room you are probably choosing to spend more money. But the menu’s wealth of options and generous portions do offer the opportunity for creative and affordable approaches to a nice meal out. One is the wood-fired pizzas, which are priced around $10 and pretty good.

But the better approach is to combine one of the appetizers — say the terrific crispy sweet-breads with capers ($8), or the darkly browned, but not-a-hair-overcooked scallops with chewy bacon ($11) — with the big side dish of dark, juicy, earthy mushrooms ($3). Try those with a carafe of the French-quirky yet California-bold Kermit Lynch Rhone blend and you have a nice meal for approximately $30. Seriously, just order it exactly like I said. Consider it the Phoenix-Grill Room omakase. You will be happier for it.

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