Bina Osteria

Opulence: enjoy it while you can
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  January 21, 2009
3.0 3.0 Stars

Service is always good at those prices, though the décor here — which features a terrazzo floor that extends to the top of the bar — can be as avant-garde as the food. There's also high seating, low seating, oddly arranged giant white panels, curtains, and scrims, and big modern art to match. Other than a soundtrack of momentous techno, it's not loud, but it is dark. Then again, all restaurants are dark these days. Most of us still have health plans that pay for glasses, so restaurateurs can get away with handing out over-designed menus, leaving you only a candle or two to read them by.

Oh, there's still fun to be had before the money all goes away. But it probably won't last for long. Pretty soon we'll be saying, "Why, when I was a boy, we could afford to drive five miles to school every day." And the young ones will reply, "Oh Grandpa, you can't expect us to believe that."

Robert Nadeau can be reached

< prev  1  |  2  |  3  | 
Related: Review: Taam China Glatt Kosher Chinese Cuisine, 163 Vietnamese Sandwich, New Rod Dee, More more >
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Foods,  More more >
| More

Most Popular
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   REVIEW: BONCHON  |  August 10, 2012
    What am I doing in this basement in Harvard Square, reviewing the second location of a multi-national franchise chain?
  •   REVIEW: CARMELINA'S  |  July 25, 2012
    After a good run with "Italian tapas" under the name Damiano (a play on the given name of chef-owner Damien "Domenic" DiPaola), this space has been rechristened as Carmelina's — after the chef's mother and his first restaurant, opened when he was an undergraduate in Western Mass — and the menu reconfigured to feature more entrées.
  •   REVIEW: TONIC  |  July 06, 2012
    Bad restaurant idea number 16: let's do a neighborhood bar-bistro where there already is one.
  •   REVIEW: HAPPY’S BAR AND KITCHEN  |  June 20, 2012
    In a year of bad restaurant ideas, one of the better bets is to have a successful fancy-food chef try a downscale restaurant.
  •   REVIEW: GENNARO'S 5 NORTH SQUARE  |  June 18, 2012
    In year of bad restaurant ideas (often done well), this the worst idea — and best meal — yet.

 See all articles by: ROBERT NADEAU