In the raw

By BRIAN DUFF  |  May 20, 2009

The best thing at GRO was the key lime crêpe for dessert, where fruit could carry the dish. A rich brown flax crêpe was filled with sweet and creamy avocado and coated in sugared strawberries. The coconut "whipped cream" was not creamy at all, and actually offered a welcome bit of crunch. The expensive little house-made chocolates were a little chalky and too sweet.

What's least appetizing are GRO's self-righteous politics. The wall is adorned with some striking paintings of the Buddha, but also one of the more dubious quotations about freedom I have read lately — one that seems to glamorize violence and blame victims of oppression. The Web site suggests "food choices evolve with self," and sipping a $7 smoothie at GRO does give you the sense of subsidizing someone's personal self-transformation. The politics of personal purity is always a disastrous detour, and raw-foodists give vegans and vegetarians (whose health, ecological, ethical, and political arguments are generally unassailable) a bad name. It is true that eating food that is hard to digest will keep you thin. So does not eating, which is cheaper. GRO at least tastes better, and they should continue to focus their efforts there.

Brian Duff can be reached at 

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