A beam of light

By BRIAN DUFF  |  July 8, 2009

With these basic strengths, and margaritas with the tang of fresh lime rather than the chemical taste of a mix, El Rayo should do very well. If they want to work on the details they might start with the guacamole, which lacks zing, looks sad in its little cup, and is not freshly made but rather seems to have sat around to decompose into something too mushy. The crunchy pepitas would be better if they came before your meal, and were saltier with less brown sugar. The chips were warm and crisp on one visit but a touch stale the next. The salsas could be easier to find — by not requiring the assistance of a server (and green salsa was unavailable on one visit, but there the next). But details, schmetails. In getting the big things right El Rayo is more than good enough and certainly the best option in town for this sort of food. Line up now, because that queue is going to get awfully cold in the winter — another detail they might want to consider.

Brian Duff can be reached at bduff@une.edu.

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