Kabuki

By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  December 30, 2009

The visual component of my dish was even more striking, starting with tall black strands piercing pansy petals. I was pleased enough to not mind that the accompaniment described on the menu, sautéed pumpkin and sweet potatoes, had been replaced. My sesame-crusted ahi tuna steak ($28) was perched instead atop a slice of grilled pineapple, which covered a small bowl of sweet corn. Those slivers of vegetables and mushrooms were on my plate, too. We also ordered a side of tasty Thai black rice ($5), which distinguished itself from the Korean black rice accompanying some dishes by being slightly citrus sweet rather than spicy hot. The accompanying sweet chili sauce and flavorful miso sauce both went well with the rare tuna.

As for the desserts, save room. And good luck choosing from among the dozen. The dark chocolate gelato ($6) and the lychee sorbet ($8) are good, but the tempura banana à la mode ($7) is simply wonderful, a hot and cold taste delight.

Owner-host Benjamin Qian and chef Steven Lee have done well. Who says that rice has to be white or hand rolls boring?

< prev  1  |  2  | 
  Topics: Restaurant Reviews , Culture and Lifestyle, Food and Cooking, Foods,  More more >
| More


Most Popular
ARTICLES BY BILL RODRIGUEZ
Share this entry with Delicious
  •   WILLY'S  |  August 20, 2014
    Sometimes in this world of culinary over-achievement, of luaus and foie gras and molecular gastronomy, sometimes we simply want to chomp into a nice, juicy hamburger or hot dog.
  •   TWOTENOYSTER BAR & GRILL  |  July 23, 2014
    One of the appealing features of living in a place called the Ocean State is that there are plenty of water-view restaurants.
  •   BEE'S THAI CUISINE  |  July 16, 2014
    On the radar of Providence foodies, the ding of Bee’s Thai Cuisine has grown increasingly louder and brighter.
  •   THE FINAL COUNTDOWN  |  July 16, 2014
    Strap in for a fast-paced adaptation of Agatha Christie's classic mystery.
  •   A SO-SO SATIRE  |  July 02, 2014
    There’s this poor country whose medium of exchange is goats (actually, promises of parts of a goat — promissory goats).

 See all articles by: BILL RODRIGUEZ