Gesualdi's

Don't tell anybody about this place. It's too small, packed at lunchtime and breakfast, so it doesn't need more regulars. At a recent visit, the midday crowd at the counter and few tables was mostly workmen, judging from the brawn and rolled-up flannel shirts. If too many students and young couples with bottles of Pinot Grigio start showing up, they'll probably think it's turning into a yuppie bar, even though it's BYOB. This little eatery is one of those spinoffs of an Italian family kitchen. Oh, the wedding soup. Ah, the huge sandwiches. The meal-size salads are praiseworthy, sometimes topped with grilled or marinated swordfish or salmon. The combo platter ($6.95) of fried eggplant, sausage, and a mega-meatball is enough for two to supplement their pasta. The place . . . OK, it's called GESUALDI'S. Keep it to yourself. | 634 Hartford Avenue, Providence | 401.751.6340

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