Desserts are lagging a little, as Partridge is not a pastry expert. But the lemon tart ($7) is small and choice, almost as tart (flavor-wise) as key-lime pie. And chocolate-mousse cake ($8) is really a smooth, rich mousse, with just enough cake around the edges to justify the description. Tarte Tatin ($8), however, lacks the crucial caramelization atop a pile of good apples on an individual tart shell. The ice cream, too, is weak, though this could be easily be fixed by choosing another brand. However, the crème brûlée ($7) is a simple, classing reading of that dish.
Service needs a little tuning. Our server was willing but lost the green beans until after entrées were served, while the bussing staff grabbed wine glasses that still had wine in them. The décor features pretty good art-nouveau lamps along with the ubiquitous vintage French posters and some unusual paintings like fashion sketches.
Excessive branding suggests that the owners intend this as a pilot, and why not? If French food comes back, they could always convert a few of their 14 Paparazzi locations.
Bouchée, 159 Newbury Street, Back Bay | Open Sun–Thurs, 11:30 am–11 pm; and Fri and Sat, 11:30 am–midnight | AE, DC, DI, MC, VI | Full bar | Valet Parking | Access up or down a full flight of stairs | (617) 450-4343
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Robert Nadeau: RobtNadeau@aol.com