Dessert is the easiest course in this cuisine. Chef Cohen has a picture on her Web site of faux cannoli and such, but the faux dessert our night was “sinfully delicious cheesecake” ($11) — and it rather was. No actual cheese, of course, but the combination of ground nuts and bananas was pretty rich and delicious, and the nut crust underneath was better than the cookie-crumb crusts of most commercial cheesecakes. An agave sauce with some berries and kiwi didn’t provide the sweet contrast you’d get with “real” cheesecake, but it was tasty. A “rich brownie sundae” ($11) was a slam dunk. It came with housemade vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry gelato; chocolate sauce that was somehow melted; and a “brownie” that was crumbly and based on Brazil nuts, but rather like a brownie, with that irreplaceable chocolate flavor.

The short menu changes weekly and offers a “chef’s tasting” ($59). I think the former is a good idea, but the latter might not be, since the best effects of this cuisine are not cumulative. Cohen is putting so much on each platter that her best weapon — obscure varieties of vegetables, herbs, and greens — can be dulled by overuse. Her real goal is to make this a diet for life, so I think in the long run her efforts are better aimed at cold soups and salads rather than faux Italian or Thai food. It will be interesting to see what she serves on a planned brunch menu.

One meal is not a diet for life, so I didn’t expect to feel more energized and lucid, nor did my aches and pains melt away. I was, in fact, on the way to a Celtics game, and considered balancing my Grezzo meal with a kosher hot dog. But I didn’t really need it, and didn’t have it.

Robert Nadeau can be reached at RobtNadeau@aol.com .