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I knew that young people were drinking their grandparents' cocktails, but I didn't know that young bartenders were studying century-old mixology texts, or that folks were whipping up homemade bitters in their basement laboratories.

Having come of age during the California wine revival and paid good attention to the microbrewery explosion, I lagged on the cocktail front. Bourbon, brandies, and Scotch are familiar territory, of course, but I wouldn't have entirely believed this new information if we hadn't gone to one of Slim's favorite haunts for a nightcap, which was . . . well, it's his passion, so keep an eye out for his byline on this subject. For my part, I am planning to take my reviewing out past the running critique of over-sweetened dating-bar drinks, whenever I find food accompanied by a serious list of cocktails. ^

Robert Nadeau can be reached atrobtnadeau@aol.com.

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