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Restaurant Reviews

SoulFire Barbecue

Devilishly good food
The soul references apparently identify an enterprise as deeply committed to ’60s and ’70s soul music as to the food that ought to accompany it.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | August 02, 2006

LTK Bar and Kitchen

Legal Sea Foods cooks up an experiment
It’s odd to drive up to the new LTK (Legal Test Kitchen) and realize that it’s across the street from the defunct Jimmy’s Harborside.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | July 25, 2006

Change is (mostly) a good thing
Back in the days of South African apartheid, there was a period when popular music stars were lured to play at Sun City, a stadium in a bantustan that was pretending not to be part of apartheid.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | July 19, 2006

Salute

Is Roslindale village becoming the new North End?
After this year’s run of high-end North End bistros, I wasn’t expecting very much from Salute, a neighborhood-oriented bar-restaurant in Roslindale Village, which already has several high-end Italian bistros.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | July 11, 2006

Kaze

Dip into a fun, flavorful date spot
Kaze is Boston’s most elaborate presentation yet of the Mongolian hot pot, or “shabu-shabu” in Japanese.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | July 05, 2006

Tresca

Raised prices, lowered expectations
In an uncertain market where most operators are looking down, the owners of Tresca decided to raise prices. Food begins justifiably exquisite.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 28, 2006

Bon Savor

What if your Russian grandmother added a pinch of french and a dollop of tropical?
Oleg Konovalov and Ibonne Zabala read French cookbooks to open a French restaurant, but they ended up using some things French, some things vaguely tropical, plenty of vegan options, and some recipes from a Russian grandmother

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 21, 2006

Eclano

Everything you’re looking for — nothing more
Why is one pretentious and expensive North End bistro better than another? Because it delivers on every course.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 14, 2006

Stoli Bar and Restaurant

Plenty of ways to describe good food
In some ways the owners of Stoli are wonderfully naïve about American culture; in others, wonderfully sophisticated and knowing.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | June 07, 2006

Conundrum

Relaxed ﬁne dining, Cambridge-style
The only puzzle at Conundrum is why they picked that name.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 31, 2006

River Gods

An Irish pub that’s a real restaurant (with a punk sensibility)
I’ve gotten over the novelty of Irish bars with good food, but River Gods is a novelty in so many other directions, I think it could only happen in Cambridge.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 24, 2006

Seiyo Sushi and Wine Shop

Sushi and salad and wine? Oh my!
You walk into Seiyo and you see a divider made of green Bordeaux-shaped wine bottles stuck into vertical pipes.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 17, 2006

Caffe Italia

Three restaurants in one
There are actually two restaurants called Caffe Italia in East Boston: this one, behind the tunnel entrance, between Central and Maverick Squares; and Caffe Italia II, in Jeffries Point, on Bennington Street.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 10, 2006

Persian perfection

Shahnaz struts its stuff
Recently the readers of the Portland Phoenix voted to name Shahnaz Persian Grille as Portland's best Middle Eastern restaurant, so I decided to head up Forest Avenue to see if the voters were onto something.

By: BRIAN DUFF | May 03, 2006

Douzo

A range of unusual choices — most, uncommonly good
Douzo is supposed to mean something like “welcome” in Japanese, and a large crowd has already welcomed this large, shiny, sushi-plus restaurant to its location near Back Bay station.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | May 03, 2006

Sorellina

A few dishes amaze; many don’t
Another week, another second or third restaurant by a famous chef (Jamie “Mistral” Mammano) focused on a single cuisine (Italian), with a more-junior chef (John Delpha) at the controls.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 26, 2006

Lineage

Jeremy Sewall does his heritage proud
There are at least three kinds of lineage invoked here.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 19, 2006

OM

Pretty inside and out
The early word on OM from a Phoenix staffer was, “Pretty food. Prettier than I tend to like my food, actually.”

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 12, 2006

Marco Cucina Romana

Marc Orfaly’s first-rate second restaurant
I am loving this new trend of top-dollar chefs opening second and third restaurants where they take a little bit off their fastball and have an under chef (here Matt Abdoo) on the premises doing the cooking.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 05, 2006

New Taste of Asia

When it was good, it was very, very good . . .
This one is tricky. It is both the best and the worst Chinese restaurant I’ve reviewed in many years.

By: ROBERT NADEAU | April 05, 2006

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